Day 21

The day didn’t start well, with a 430am rooster, then his friends with slightly later but still invasive alarm clocks. Josh and I continued along the West Coast Wilderness Trail, which became increasingly scenic. I was feeling a bit flat (and sleep-deprived!) and stopped to take a few photos, including what ended up being my last one of Josh as he sped away towards his family.

The trail was beautiful and I should have lingered (and taken more photos) instead of blasting through. Lots of native bush, panoramic mountain views and still, clear water. Plenty of other (nonTA) riders too, out enjoying this perfect Sunday weather. There were pairs, groups and guided tours, even some e-bikes. I’d love to come back here with Richard and appreciate it more.

But perhaps not stay at Cowboy Paradise, which is an odd little Western replica town half way round. I would have bought a snack – and I was very keen to buy some wifi and look at MAProgress – but there was literally no one to be seen, despite other potential customers also milling about. After 15 minutes I gave up and moved on, my mood certainly not improved!

Just before Cowboy Paradise there had been an excellent curvy single track down hill and it was great to sweep through the bends and around some tight switchbacks, though they’re still not exactly my strong point. During the next section I kept leapfrogging some day bikers – nothing like luggage to give you a bit of downhill momentum. Then quite a long gravel road section, where I realised my lack of eating and drinking today was not exactly helping, downed a couple of bumper bars and belatedly applied some sunscreen.

The trail transitioned into singletrack alongside a water race, with very clear water. The track was narrow at times and I did contemplate the likelihood of me joining the water race if I didn’t slow down! There were a couple of emergency stops to accommodate oncoming MTBers. And then it was back on the tarmac again, to roll into Hokitika at 1230.

This was much earlier than I’d been expecting and I had been thinking about pushing on given the good weather. I’d previously had an email from Debbie saying if the timing wasn’t right, I was welcome to just pick up the parcel and she wouldn’t be offended! So I headed to my favourite Hokitika cafe, downed a few calories, then made a beeline for Debbie’s place. I was sad not to cross paths (she was out tramping till the evening) but grateful for the chance to refill and restock from my parcel and briefly dry my tent in the Hokitika sun.

I headed out of town on the continuation of the trail, thinking about having a relatively easy rest of the day and hoping to bump into some other TAers. First the trail was interesting with nice native bush but then it was a fast, easy and slightly boring blat to Ross. One section was so flat, straight and quiet that I was able to chat to Richard on speakerphone for 10 mins! It’s novel to have such good mobile coverage after the patchiness of the past few days.

Just before Ross, Brian and Guy, who I remembered from the ferry, caught up, and also ended up staying at the lovely Top10 next to the beach. Johan was there too, and Frank the cycletourist from Colorado who’d also been on the ferry. It was great to see some friendly familiar faces – and then Barb and Russ turned up too 🙂

Trying for an earlier night tonight, thanks to stopping at 5 – and maybe an earlier start tomorrow to get ahead of the rain. The next few days are looking nasty. Also hoping tomorrow to cross paths with my brother and nephew who are driving up the Coast. Look out for my pink vest, I told them.